John Galliano is fashion's greatest performer. For his spring signature collection, he pulled inspiration from Maria Lani, a cunning 1920s actress who talked the era's greatest artists, like Chagall, Matisse and Cocteau, into painting her portrait for a film she was shooting. It was a hoax; she sold her portraits for a mint and was never seen again. To that end, every exit for spring was a one-of-a-kind, connected more or less only by a theatricality but also wearability.
LoeweA year into the gig and Stuart Vevers seems to be bringing Loewe up to speed, albeit via an old Hollywood elegance. Spring had the feeling of a 1950s debutante on her European tour, her steamer packed with boxy tops, trim skirts and day dresses in cheerful hues.
Christian Dior
This was John Galliano at his best, when he channels that sizable imagination and theatricality into real clothes. Here, the customer wins. She gets all of the Galliano joie de vivre in something she can actually wear, like classic sailor pants and no end of beach-flavored printed halters, blouses and fly-away dresses.
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